Sparkling lights decorate the canopy and trees in front of La Maison on Telfair -- a welcoming sight at any time. Inside, the house is warm and inviting, with soft background music and the glow from crystal sconces and chandeliers. Usually, patrons are greeted by Heinz Sorvinski, proprietor and chef of the Olde Town business.

The menu is creative and diverse, with nightly specials on most courses.

On my visit, the portabello-mushroom appetizer special, layered with spinach, was a treat. The half-order was large, making one imagine that a whole order must be enough for a meal. It, like all the dishes at La Maison, was well presented, and the flavor matched the delivery.

The she-crab soup rivaled any I've ever had. It was brimming with delicious crab meat and delicately flavored with sherry served ``to taste'' by our waiter.

The unexpected arrival of a smooth champagne sorbet was an added treat. It prepared our palates for the main course.

The decision-making process is made less difficult because there are often specials that include a trio of meats. A veal chop with a morell mushroom sauce, two rabbit tenderloins with a normande sauce and three small lobster tails can challenge even the heartiest appetite. My dinner companion was up to the task and not sorry for his choice. The three meats, although different, were well seasoned and well prepared and complemented each other nicely. Any one would have been a treat.

I chose Dover sole. Having spent some time in France, where I enjoyed sole on many occasions, I believe myself to be an ``expert'' on Dover sole, which only swims in the English Channel. Much of the Dover sole sold in the United States is really flounder, so I was skeptical and quite prepared to meet whatever fish pretended to be sole on this particular evening. Imagine my surprise when the fish actually was sole. Delicately cooked in a light sauce and served with warm, peeled green grapes, it was delightful.

Thankful that I didn't have to have my cholesterol checked in the near future, I chose creme brulee from desserts including Chocolate Sensation, Wild Turkey cheesecake and Swiss walnut caramel tart. The perfectly flavored French custard is La Maison's most popular dessert. The brittle, caramelized topping contrasted nicely with the smooth, creamy custard beneath and was topped with two fresh raspberries. I thought I had died and gone to heaven.

Dinner at La Maison on Telfair feels like dinner at a friend's elegant house, where nothing is left to chance and attention to every detail is obvious. Whether entertaining important business clients or sharing a quiet dinner, this is the perfect place.

Where: 404 Telfair St. (map)

Julie Badger edited the "Junior League of Augusta's Second Round: Tea-Time at the Masters cookbook".