As longtime Augusta residents, we have soft spots in our hearts for restaurants in town that have stood the test of time.

Ming Wah, a Walton Way fixture since 1972, is one of those.

The Chinese restaurant is spacious and attractive, with serene Oriental art and (somewhat incongruously) a large-screen television that, during our visit, was tuned to CNN.

The menu has more than 100 entrees, including combination platters, daily specials and family dinners. Vegetable chicken, seafood, beef, pork and duck meals are served in dozens of styles, including chop suey, chow mein, lo mein and egg foo young.

We got things rolling with the tidbit plate appetizer ($7.25), a spread including two egg rolls, three fried shrimp, three barbecue ribs, three fried wontons, three chicken wings and three shrimp toasts. The egg rolls were fabulous, but the chicken wings and barbecue ribs tasted a tad greasy and the shrimp were definitely overwhelmed by the breading.

For entrees, we chose broccoli with shrimp ($8.85) and Hunan Triple ($9.65). Ming Wah's portions are huge and served piping hot, but we were disappointed by the shrimpy shrimp (which were also a bit tough) and the overly sweet sauce on the broccoli with shrimp.

The Hunan Triple, consisting of plentiful jumbo shrimp, beef, chicken and tender-crisp Chinese vegetables, was a much better bet, though we would have preferred a spicier sauce.

Desserts are limited to ice cream, almond cookies and fortune cookies. We ordered a scoop of vanilla ice cream, which tasted icy rather than creamy. Based on the server's surprised expression when we ordered it, we're guessing it's a back-of-the-freezer fixture that rarely finds its way to the table. Fair enough that ice cream isn't a top priority in a Chinese restaurant, but if it's on the menu, the restaurant should be proud to serve it and the diner should be pleased to eat it.

Speaking of our service, it was decidedly on the grumpy side, and our clutter practically screeched for attention that was not forthcoming. Also, the plates were too small for the portion sizes, so a few spills added to the disarray.

But the restaurant is sparkling clean and an overall crowd pleaser, with good food, huge portions and reasonable prices. A little extra attention to detail will make it just the ticket for a great Chinese meal.

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ON THE TOWN

The Eatery: Ming Wah, 920 Baker Ave., at Walton Way (map)

Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday-Saturday, 11 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. Sunday

Phone: 733-0740, or fax at 733-2808

The Verdict: An Augusta staple, with large portions, reasonable prices. 3 out of 5 stars.

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Mary Deriso is the retired general manager of the Pinnacle Club, a private dining club in Augusta. Christine Hurley Deriso is a writer whose children's book, Dreams to Grow On, is available in local bookstores and on Amazon.com.