A strip mall on bustling Bobby Jones Expressway seems an unlikely location for a charming slice of Greece, but Niko's Athens Restaurant & Taverna pulls it off.

The restaurant, which serves authentic Greek food for breakfast, lunch and dinner, is decorated with Greek columns, ceiling fans, a canopied kitchen and sprawling grapevines. The menu is sprawling, too, with dozens of dishes, including appetizers, salads, steaks, burgers, pasta, Mediterranean specialties, gyros, souvlaki, hot submarine sandwiches, international pizzas, spirits and a children's menu.

Each dish is distinctive, but the restaurant stays true to its Greek roots, including an enduring love affair with olive oil, one of nature's most healthful and sublime treats. With a flair for seasoning, sauteing, dressing and dipping, Niko's Athens Restaurant & Taverna transforms silky-smooth olive oil into manna from heaven.

For lunch, we ordered a gyro with Greek salad ($5.95), spaghetti with tossed salad and garlic bread ($4.95) and baked chicken riganato ($5.25). Note that these prices are comparable with those of fast-food meals - a great value, considering the quality.

The food was exceptional, characterized by large portions and attention to detail. The gyro was packed with melt-in-the-mouth slivers of lamb, shredded lettuce, tomatoes and onions. The Greek salad was full of crisp greens and was smothered in feta cheese.

The chicken, marinated in lemon juice, olive oil, oregano and other spices, was moist and tender, with flavor that permeated every bite. The chicken is served with a choice of two side dishes. We chose Athens potatoes and Greek vegetables, both of which were wonderfully seasoned and cooked to perfection.

The spaghetti was filling and hearty, but not as noteworthy as the other dishes.

For dessert, we chose a light, frothy cheesecake ($2.95) and a moist, rich slice of carrot cake ($3.50).

Our server was cheerful and efficient but oblivious to our mounting pile of clutter. Nevertheless, the quality and value at Niko's Athens Restaurant are nothing short of addictive. We'll be back.

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ON THE TOWN

The Eatery: Niko's Athens Restaurant & Taverna, 246 Bobby Jones Expressway (map)

Hours: 6 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday-Friday; 7 a.m. to 10 p.m. Saturday-Sunday

Phone: 868-1508

The Verdict: Charming authenticity. 4 out of 5 stars.

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Mary Deriso is retired as general manager of the Pinnacle Club, a private dining club in Augusta. Christine Hurley Deriso is a writer whose children's book, Dreams to Grow On, is available in bookstores and on Amazon.com.