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Food, service sizzle at T-Bonz



Maybe it was the holiday spirit. Maybe it was the invigorating chill outside. Maybe it was the scent of grilled steaks wafting through the air.


When we visited T-Bonz on Gordon Highway recently, we were treated to one of the warmest, most inviting dining experiences we've ever had.

Every employee we encountered was friendly and accommodating. And the mood was contagious. Diners were relaxed and cheerful. Servers were prompt and efficient. Chefs kept the grill running like a well-oiled machine. The owner has either trained his staff with vigilant attention to detail or he happens to attract the nicest, most conscientious employees in town. Kudos, and keep up the good work.

As for the food, well, T-Bonz has earned its slew of awards for a reason. The restaurant is famous for its steaks, but the menu has something for everyone. Salads, stew, chili, chicken wings, seafood, hot sandwiches and a nice children's menu are just a few of the offerings.

We started with a Lowcountry flowering onion ($5.95), which had a crunchy, light batter, nicely accentuated by a ranch-like dipping sauce. A caveat: this appetizer is really filling unless you share it with a crowd, but it's so delicious, you'll be tempted to scarf the whole thing down yourself.

Next came salads. The house salad, which accompanies entrees, was sensational and inventive. The greens were topped with tomatoes, cucumbers, homemade croutons, black olives and shredded carrots. We appreciated the generous assortment of dressings, including several light or fat-free varieties. The raspberry vinaigrette was delectable. Many restaurants treat house salads like an afterthought, but this one was memorable.

The Caesar salad, on the other hand, was disappointing - no anchovy flavor and a dressing that tasted more like ranch than Caesar.

The entrees were the high point. A 16-ounce t-bone steak ($16.95) simply melted in the mouth. Likewise, Almost Famous Baby Back Ribs ($15.95) were tender and meaty, with a nice vinegary flavor. The generous serving was nothing short of eye-popping.

Entrees are served with a loaf of fresh bread and a side dish. The garlic whipped potatoes that accompanied the steak were so good, they alone would inspire a repeat visit. The baked potato that came with the ribs, unfortunately, was barely warm and tasted as if it had been cooked earlier in the evening.

Our desserts, granny apple caramel pie and Snicker pie ($3.95 each), weren't homemade but were winners just the same.

A word about the iced tea: It was wonderfully clear and fresh, and the server made sure lots of ice accompanied the frequent refills. Bravo!

The server also decluttered like a pro. We'll be back, not just for the steaks, but for the smiles.


ON THE TOWN

What: T-Bonz Steakhouse of Augusta, 1654 Gordon Highway (map)

Hours: 11 a.m. to late, daily

Phone: 796-1875, fax at 796-1745

The Verdict: Friendly faces, steaks are aces. 4 out of 5 stars.


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